Thursday, July 31, 2014

New site, new opportunities

Citalá as viewed from the hill overlooking it, with
my new friend Ale in the foreground.
Having left Toreras last Friday after ten months there, I'm now living and working in the charming town of Citalá, Chalatenango, El Salvador, located in the country's northwest. If my first six days in Citalá are any indication of what's to come, I think I'm going to be quite happy during my fourteen-or-so months here. People here are sociable and inviting, and hearteningly display great pride in their hometown, and my host family here is helpful and fun to be around. The contrasts between my new and old sites are enormous. While despair and hopelessness lamentably consumed Toreras, vibrancy prevails here. Having WiFi at home and reliable cell signal also don't hurt...

I realize that in time I am sure to encounter some sources of frustration as I begin work projects here (this is inevitable in any country), and that I am in the thick of my site "honeymoon" (as Peace Corps parlance would have it), but for now I am content to enjoy said honeymoon and be grateful for all that Citalá offers that I was not able to count on in my previous location.

That's all for now. Feel free to contact me directly with any questions.

Saturday, July 19, 2014

Heading Out West

I have some exciting news to announce: Next week I'm moving to a new site, where I'll serve out the remaining fourteen months of my time as a volunteer in El Salvador.

I hope to bring to a close the days of lamenting Toreras' inadequacies as a Peace Corps site, so it will suffice to say that a community without aspirations for its future cannot make productive use of a Peace Corps Volunteer. I have learned and grown a great deal over the course of my nine months in Toreras, and do not regret having been sent there, but I would be lying if I said that I am not very happy to have an opportunity to spend the duration of my Peace Corps service in a place that has some capacity to make use of me and offers reasons to feel hopeful about its future and the future of El Salvador.

That place is Citalá, Chalatenango, a small city on the western side of the country. I visited there last week with my Project Manager to meet a few community leaders and my future host family, and left with a favorable first impression. I am reticent to provide many details, having only visited my new community briefly, so I'll leave those to future posts. 

I leave Toreras on Thursday, July 24, and my first day in Citalá will be Friday, July 25. 

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Migration meditations, pt. 2

 Hi all --

Toreras' situation remains unchanged and I'm afraid I don't have much new analysis of it that I did not convey in my previous, morose post. I do, however, have a dreary tidbit to share that illustrates the difficulty of working in community development with a community that has utterly given up on itself. 

About two weeks ago, Peace Corps staff organized a workshop on gender and sexuality for volunteers, who were to bring one counterpart each (a counterpart in Peace Corps parlance is any community member with which is PCVs collaborates on a project). The two-day workshop was to be held at a hotel overlooking the Pacific on El Salvador's beautiful Costa del Sol and promised to be both an educational experience and an enjoyable opportunity for volunteers and counterparts to relax and exchange ideas with new people engaged in diverse activities in their communities. 

The counterpart I invited was one of the two young women in my community to have acquired a university degree. She is significantly less shy than most young women in my community and, while not actively engaged in any formal leadership positions, has the potential to be a formidable community leader in Toreras. My decision to invite her to the workshop was based on my hope that the activities would familiarize her with various topics related to gender equality (as these issues are never discussed in Toreras and a minimum of outside information manages to enter the community) and animate her to want to address the problem of gender inequality in Toreras. With her newfound motivation, I could push her to take a more active role in the women's group I am attempting to organize in Toreras, my thinking went.

The workshop went great and I think that in just two days my counterpart became significantly more conversant in gender issues. While the workshop did not inspire a ferocious passion in her to tackle gender inequality in Toreras, I felt as we were traveling home from it that I had made the right choice to invite this particular woman and that maybe I would be able to cultivate her into a valuable work partner who could help me propel the women's group forward.

Four days after the workshop, she, like many Torereños before her, left for the U.S.

If you're picturing a young Salvadoran woman dutifully boarding an airplane, eager to embark upon an adventure in a new country, stop. Like most people who emigrate from El Salvador to the U.S., she is traveling por tierra, placing her life in the hands of a coyote, or human smuggler, to whom her family paid somewhere between $6,000 and $8,000.

Her case is not at all unique. Six young people from Toreras--or 3% of its population--have left for the U.S. in just the last three months, and a great many more are hoping to leave as soon as their situations permit, just as hundreds have since the the 1980s. Having dwelled on this topic in my last post, suffice it to say that the the constant exodus of young people--some with genuine leadership potential--is starving this country of the human resources it needs to overcome its tremendous challenges. As I identify unexploited opportunity after unexploited opportunity to generate income right here in Toreras, I question more and more the refrain that illegal migration from Central America to the U.S. is borne of economic necessity and desperation.

----

In a small bit of encouraging news, I have discovered that getting kids to enjoy reading books is not as difficult as I had expected in a community where reading for pleasure is simply not done. A side project of mine is to form a little book club with a group of fourth, fifth, and sixth graders to teach them to appreciate books, improve their reading skills, and expose them to new ideas. As such, I have been spending about an hour a week for the last six weeks reading children's books donated by the U.S. embassy with between four and seven kids. They keep their focus and seem to have fun, and I am hoping later on to train them in basic literary analysis and perhaps to assign them projects to help them develop some creativity, a faculty that the public schools utterly fail to nurture.

That's all for now. Feel free to send me emails with questions or comments.

UPDATE: Here are a couple pictures of book shopping with some girls from my site. The books were purchased with a $500 grant I received to start a book collection at the school in Toreras.



Monday, April 21, 2014

Migration meditations

Good morning –

As usual, the pace of life remains slow in my small community of Toreras, even slower than usual this past week due to the Easter holiday. New rumors have begun circulating that the Ministry of Education will soon close Toreras' one-teacher school, the community's only institution with a physical presence, as a result of a drastic decline in the student population over the years. Migration has begun to pick up now that the North American winter is over, as young people test their luck reaching the U.S. by land via coyotes (professional human smugglers).

Migration is one of the more interesting topics I occasionally discuss with community members. Some are alert to the dangers the journey involves (murder, dehydration, and rape, to name a few), while others seem only abstractly aware that migration entails many risks. All know that crossing the border, usually across the Rio Grande into Texas, is no guarantee of successful passage; immigration authorities could promptly detain a border crosser upon arrival in the U.S. That being said, the impression I glean from my conversations is that many migrants from Toreras still manage to successfully reach the United States, where they quickly reunite with their family members residing in Pennsylvania or New York and find employment in the construction, manufacturing, food service, and hospitality industries. Some are able to migrate legally (negating the need to employ a coyote) with the help of family members who fled during the civil war and have since obtained American citizenship, but the majority travel sin papeles.

My experience in El Salvador will influence my views on immigration, probably for the rest of my life. The question of 'how' is still unclear. Before sharing some of my thoughts, I find it befitting to acknowledge that migration is a global phenomenon existing under a diversity of regional, political, and economic circumstances, and as such, I am careful not to universalize the observations I make from my tiny corner of El Salvador.

Having lived amid such poverty now for almost seven months, I have developed a great deal of sympathy for those who leave their loved ones, countries, and cultures to live on the fringes of a much richer society to provide financially for their families. Observing the circumstances into which they were born, their desire to migrate is easy to understand. That being said, among those they leave behind, the mentality that remittance dependence begets carries many negative social and economic consequences. Under remittance dependency (at least as far as I observe it in Toreras), children and their parents perceive little incentive to place importance on education, basic opportunities to generate income go unexploited, and people never experience the dignity and fulfillment of earning one's own living. Additionally, migration starves Toreras of valuable human capital, a reality compounded by the tendency for the more enterprising and ambitious young residents tend to be the ones to make the journey north, while the less-motivated stay behind.

I often wonder what Toreras would be like today if migration to the United States had never implanted itself into the community's DNA. For guidance we can examine Toreras' circumstances before El Salvador's civil war of the 1980s. Young men left Toreras during the war years not because fighting directly threatened the community's safety, but because of promises that the prosperous U.S. was offering asylum to Salvadoran migrants ostensibly fleeing the war. This exodus marked the beginning of the formation of Toreras' diaspora in the United States (concentrated in Hempstead, New York and suburban Philadelphia) and its inhabitants' financial dependence on their stateside relatives.

Unlike the strictly subsistence-level agriculture of today, before the war Toreras families produced more corn, beans, and other staples, and sold substantial portions of their harvests at markets in nearby towns (they arrived on horseback, as in these days there were no roads connecting Toreras to larger population centers). Back then, people worked harder and life overall was more difficult, but every colón (El Salvador's currency before dollarization in 2001) was earned and how hard each family worked was commensurate to its prosperity.

It is beyond my capability to prove counterfactuals, but I find it quite conceivable that Toreras would be richer today had migration and its corresponding remittances never become a factor in community life. Perhaps if residents flush with remitted cash had not abandoned their image of themselves as commercial farmers, they would have one day embraced more lucrative crops like coffee and cacao, or adopted new technologies to make their farming and commercializing of staple crops more productive and efficient. Unlike before the war, Toreras now is connected to roads, electricity, and cellular signal, three advancements that would have stood to benefit commercial agricultural activities. Furthermore, without migration, Toreras' population (currently about 200) would likely stand at more than twice what it is today, and as such would boast far more human capital. Lastly, Toreras would not suffer from a crippling mentality defined by its dependency on the fruits of faraway labor and its resignation toward its own economic potential, an improvement upon today's situation with potentially profound implications.

Of course, the practical application of the above thought experiment is limited. The reality is that Toreras does depend on remittances as its economic lifeline, and that young men and women grow up here expecting and hoping to leave one day to toil in the U.S. and build a better life there. In fairness, I should not fail to mention that remittances do spare people here the worst of poverty; children don't grow up barefoot and practically everyone gets enough to eat. My main point is that migration and remittances seem to preclude this community from dreaming — from asking itself what it wants to be and summoning the motivation to realize the answer to that question.